John Lobb is among the most renowned manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that became famous as a center of footwear production in the seventeenth century. Although Hermes Group has owned the company since 1976, the factory is dedicated to preserving the traditional production process developed in the 1800s.
Modern machines are present but secondary. For instance, lasers are not used to cut leather. Instead, plastic patterns are made, which are handed to clickers. Their title comes from the distinctive “click” of the knife touching the cutting table. With special blades, they cut the hides manually.
Production is limited, with only roughly 450 to 500 pairs made each week. This approach gives the sense of one-of-a-kind production. Employees switch between twenty shoe types in a day, instead of repeating one routine step like in assembly-line workshops. Every shoe is built with the Goodyear method, allowing a leaky sole to be removed without damaging the upper.
Similar to Hermes, John Lobb chooses only the finest leather, particularly from six-month-old French calves. Only about sixty percent is suitable for cutting, while the remainder becomes supporting details.
The line combines timeless classics with contemporary tweaks. The City II black Oxfords, for instance, now feature a sleeker silhouette. The Sennen shoes gained refined buckles and a thicker sole. The Lopez loafers, introduced in the 1950s, now include a rubber sole and fresh shades. Newer icons include the Porth model and the Levah sneakers, which are produced yearly in a mix of colors and materials.
Through its commitment to tradition and quality, John Lobb remains one of the pillars in English shoemaking.
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